Louped: Paul Engel

Meet Paul: a dedicated collector and researcher passionate about vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex—he is part of our growing community shaping the future of watches on Collected.

What's your name, and how did you get into collecting watches?



My name is Paul Engel. I’ve been fascinated by watches since college, but it was early in my professional career that I began studying the most historically important manufacturers. I spent countless hours poring over auction catalogues and became captivated by the rare and unique vintage wristwatches they featured—pieces I dreamed of one day owning.

What has always drawn me to vintage watches is their craftsmanship. They were created largely by hand, and each carries subtle variations in execution and the way it ages over time. That individuality and character simply can’t be replicated by modern manufacturing techniques.

A duo of Patek Philippe ref. 2508s: steel and gold on Gay Frères beads-of-rice bracelets. Platinum link ring by Katrina Vrakas.

What kinds of watches do you collect today, and how do you decide what stays in your collection?

Among the great manufacturers, my first love has always been Patek Philippe, with Vacheron Constantin becoming a close second. I admired their place in horological history and how each established an enduring reputation during the formative decades of wristwatch development.

1950s Vacheron Constantin ref. 4897 and Vacheron Constantin ref. 4984

As my collection evolved, I also developed a deep appreciation for Rolex and Cartier after studying countless auction catalogues and dreaming of owning certain iconic references—many of which I’ve fortunately had the opportunity to acquire over the years.

1970s Cartier Reverso Dual Time

Today, my primary focus has returned to rare, original vintage Patek Philippe references, although I continue to enjoy exceptional examples from other makers. If a watch catches my eye and also carries compelling provenance or an interesting ownership history, that adds another dimension that I find especially appealing.

Watches I intend to keep are those I have an emotional connection to, enjoy owning/wearing and believe I can’t replace if I let them go. That’s a subject that I try to keep an open mind about if my collecting interests shift, or if an opportunity presents that requires a difficult curation decision to be made.

What's the most meaningful piece in your collection and why?

That’s a difficult question because there are several watches that could earn that distinction for different reasons. If I had to choose one, it would be my Patek Philippe Ref. 1463.

Patek Phillipe ref. 1463J with extremely rare and unique 45-minute counter on Gay Frères bead-and-brick bracelet

That watch opened the door to a relationship with a highly respected dealer who has since become a good friend. It also has fascinating provenance and remains in wonderfully honest, original condition. Most significantly, it features what is, to my knowledge, the only known example originally delivered by Patek Philippe with a custom 45-minute counter and a modified Caliber 13-130—something the manufacture has confirmed.

If you had to start your collection over from zero, where would you begin?

I would still focus primarily on vintage Patek Philippe, as that’s where my greatest passion lies. That said, I probably would have acquired a few more iconic vintage Rolex references along the way. A Rolex with a cloisonné enamel dial would certainly be on the wish list, along with an honest, original Patek Philippe Ref. 1518.

Rolex Submariner ref. 6536/1 circa 1957, Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 circa 1960

What else are you into beyond watches?


Outside of collecting, I enjoy my career as an executive in the healthcare industry. I’m also passionate about physical fitness, having been a competitive athlete earlier in life.

Most importantly, I value spending time with my family and with my sidekick, Charli—a Goldendoodle whose distinctive coat pattern comes from the relatively rare merle gene.

Paul’s 993 C4S, in case you didn’t know where the ‘aircool’ in @aircooltime came from.

What do you look for when you’re deciding who to buy from?

First and foremost, I’m a preservationist when it comes to vintage wristwatches. I enjoy studying the smallest details and firmly believe that success in collecting comes from sweating the small stuff.

I prefer buying from people I know, trust, and genuinely enjoy interacting with over time. Unfortunately, given the rarity of truly exceptional vintage watches, that’s not always possible. When opportunities arise outside that trusted circle, I simply become even more diligent and detail-oriented before moving forward.

Patek Philippe ref. 565A case serial stampings: Taubert fact or Doxa fiction? Paul dives into this detail on his Substack.

Tell us about a time you got burned.

Early in my collecting journey, I traded one vintage Patek Philippe for another through a well-known dealer. The watch was represented as being completely original, but when it arrived, something about the dial didn’t sit right with me.

I contacted the dealer, who accepted the watch back for inspection. After reviewing it, they maintained that they believed everything was original, so despite my reservations, I decided to keep it. As it turned out, the dial had indeed been restored.

That experience taught me two valuable lessons. First, ask very specific questions—and developing the knowledge to know what questions to ask is essential. Second, trust your instincts. If something doesn’t feel right, there’s usually a reason.

A study in Patek Philippe engraved enamel dials

What's the most important thing you've learned buying and selling watches?

There is no substitute for time, experience, and handling vintage watches in person. You can’t rely solely on photographs, and while artificial intelligence is becoming an increasingly useful tool, I worry that some newer collectors and dealers place too much confidence in it without developing firsthand experience.

When you’re uncertain, it’s invaluable to have a trusted network of knowledgeable friends you can consult. If you don’t have that network, don’t hesitate to seek independent advice from someone with genuine expertise.

When buying, I always think about how a watch will fit into my collection, whether I’ll genuinely enjoy owning and wearing it, and where I believe fair market value lies based on my own research.

Who do you respect most in the watch world, and why?

It’s difficult to narrow that down to a single person because I’ve been fortunate to meet so many remarkable people throughout my journey.

The individuals I respect most are the collectors, dealers, auction specialists, and scholars who generously share their knowledge, remain approachable, and never take themselves too seriously. Their willingness to engage openly and continue learning is something I greatly admire.

What would bring the excitement back to the watch community for you?

For me, the greatest excitement comes from meaningful interactions—both online and in person—with people who share the same passion. Watches are fascinating, but it’s the friendships and shared curiosity that make this community special.

One of the reasons I created my Instagram account and later my website, was to challenge myself to write and share the results of my research, experience, and personal perspectives with others who enjoy these subjects as much as I do. I’m excited to continue expanding that work and look forward to seeing where the next chapter takes me.

Join Paul and a growing community of like-minded collectors for free on Collected.