Louped: Robi Burns

Meet Robi. Known for authoring tudorsub.com and his focus on collecting vintage Rolex and Tudor, he is part of our growing community shaping the future of watches on Collected. 

Tell us a bit about yourself. How did you first get into watches?

As much as I’d like to tell a sentimental story about being gifted a watch by a parent or inheriting something meaningful that started it all…I don’t have one.

It really started about 15 years ago when work took me to Dubai. As you can imagine, you’re exposed to a lot of money there, and I felt the need to buy my first “nice watch”. I landed on an IWC Portuguese ref. 3714. It was a pretty spontaneous purchase and not exactly a smart one given where secondary prices were at the time. That was my first lesson. I loved it though, and more importantly, it got me hooked.

From there I went down the rabbit hole most do early in their journey—researching brands, learning their histories, and eventually stumbling upon Hodinkee. Those early days were the best. They introduced me to the world of vintage watches, which has been my focus ever since. I may question that first purchase, but I wouldn’t change a thing. It’s what started all of this.

What kinds of watches do you collect today, and how do you decide what makes it into your collection?

I gravitate toward vintage Rolex and Tudor, but tend to lean more toward Tudor subs, which ultimately led me to create Tudor Sub as a resource for collectors navigating the space.

I also have a soft spot for vintage Movado—they’re just special. When it comes to what makes it into the collection, I look for a balance of condition and character. I’m not chasing NOS. I want to see honest wear—the kind that shows the watch was actually used for its intended purpose, but still remains as original and untouched as possible. If there’s a story or provenance behind it, even better. Fewer owners is always a plus. And I love a thick case. Nothing beats a strong case with prominent chamfers.

Movado M95 on bracelet with Justin Vrakas of Watch Steez. Taken at Rolliefest by James Fisk.

What’s the most meaningful piece in your collection and why?

The most meaningful piece in my collection is, at the moment, the only one left. We recently bought a house that needed a lot of work and quickly found ourselves over budget—another lesson learned—so I’ve had to reluctantly sell most of my collection. The one that remains is my Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675 MK2 circa 1972. The 1675 is what first got me hooked on vintage almost 15 years ago, and it’s still my favorite watch. It also happens to be the watch I wore when my first child was born. 

One watch to rule them all: Robi’s vintage Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675 MK2 circa 1972 with Arabic date wheel

What’s a brand or reference you think is underrated right now?

Vintage Movado. I mentioned it earlier, but vintage Movado just has something special about it. It’s hard to put into words, but once you handle one, it makes sense. They’ve been on the radar for many collectors in recent years but I still think they’re underrated.

What’s one watch currently listed on Collected you’re most excited about?

I’ll go with something a little different here. Huntington Company is selling a Vacheron Constantin Day-Date Moonphase ref. 47009, and I’m a fan.

Vacheron Constantin Day-Date Moonphase ref. 47009 listed by @huntingtoncompany

What do you think most new collectors get wrong when starting out?

From my experience talking with friends and family who are getting into watches, they tend to focus on only the big brands. My advice is always the same: buy what you like and don’t rush it. Take your time, do the research—there are so many brands out there—and figure out what actually resonates with you before making a move.

If you could add any watch to your collection tomorrow (money aside), what would it be?

I’m going to give you four. Two are watches I’d love to buy back from a close friend: a Tudor ref. 7016/0 and a Tudor ref. 7923. I originally acquired the 7016/0 from a Norwegian collector who had gotten it from the family of the original owner. The story goes that he worked in oil and gas and frequently crossed the Atlantic by sea, so he bought a watch suited for the job. It’s also a blue dial “Swiss Only” and one of the earliest snowflakes ever produced.

From left: Tudor Submariner ref. 7923; Tudor Submariner ref. 7016/0; Tudor Submariner ref. 9401/0 Canadian Mil-Sub with Snowflake hands

The 7923 is probably the rarest watch I’ve ever owned, and I was genuinely sad to part with it. It’s the only manually wound Submariner ever produced by Rolex or Tudor, and it’s a beauty. I’d be lucky to come across another.

Tudor Submariner ref. 7923 dial detail

The other is a Rolex Explorer ref. 1016 MK3 owned by a great collector and friend of mine. I’ve been bugging him for years to 
sell it to me. Maybe if he reads this, he’ll finally give in.

Lastly, my favorite Daytona: a black dial ref. 6265 “Big Red”.

Rolex Explorer ref. 1016 MK3 circa 1974

What else are you into (beyond watches)?

When I’m not with my two young kids, working, or looking at watches, I’m usually reading or half-assing it at the gym. More recently, it’s been growing grass. I live on four acres, and after a major renovation the yard’s a mess, so I’ve been on a bit of a grass-growing journey the last couple of weeks. I see a lot of gardening and yard work in my future. Outside of that, I try to keep things pretty simple.

Join Robi and a growing community of like-minded collectors for free on Collected.