Louped: @detemporeliber

Meet @detemporeliber. Known for his focus on military-issued pieces, he is part of our growing community shaping the future of watches on Collected. 

Tell us a bit about yourself. How did you first get into watches?

I’m a former US Army Special Forces soldier, more commonly referred to as a ‘Green Beret’. I first got into watches during a military course I was attending in Hereford in the United Kingdom. Both of our instructors during a block of instruction on lock-picking wore a Rolex Submariner 16610LV. We had to focus on their hands while they were doing demonstrations, but I kept finding myself getting distracted by the watches on their wrists. That was the first time I recall really wanting a watch. Prior to that, I had little interest in watches and only owned ones that were cheap and utilitarian—Timex Ironman, Casio G-Shock…that sort of thing. 

Left Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610LV with Flat Four bezel insert; right the same watch outfitted with a Crown Art Customs insert and Phoenix Strap faded by Skip Powell

What kinds of watches do you collect today, and how do you decide what makes it into your collection?

Military-issued watches have become my thing. They're what I connect with the most, given my background. We all love the stories behind watches, whether specific to a reference or to the individual who wore a particular watch. Military watches are never in short supply when it comes to great stories. 

What’s the story behind the first watch you ever bought?

The first real watch that I purchased was a Rolex Submariner 116610LN. I was leaving the military and managed to pick up a contract immediately upon getting out. Between that and two months of terminal leave, I temporarily had two streams of income. That was all the justification that I needed to purchase that watch to mark the end of my time in the military.

What’s the most meaningful piece in your collection?

This question has two answers: 

The most meaningful piece that is currently in my collection is my SF Tudor Submariner 94110. The original owner is a former US Army Special Forces soldier who served as an instructor at our dive course in the late ‘70s. He and the other cadre received the Tudors for testing in late ’78 to early ’79. At the completion of testing, they were allowed to purchase the watches. It holds a special place in my collection, given its history in the SF community.

US Army Special Forces issued Tudor Submariner Ref. 94110. Parachutist Badge at the twelve; Special Operations diver badge at the six

The other answer is the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 Unit Watch, but I won’t take delivery until Q2 or Q3 of next year. It sounds a bit hokey since you do still have to buy the watch, but it's special because you have to earn the right to do so. Even if you’re able to convince an eligible Special Operator to violate the terms with Omega and buy one on your behalf, you’d still be seen by most as nothing more than a wannabe or a fraud. Some might justify it and say, “I just think it’s a cool watch,” but as one big influencer in watch world is apt to say, “it’s never just a watch.” Some things just can’t be bought and that’s exactly what the Unit Watch represents.

What’s a brand or reference you think is underrated right now?

The Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 is highly underrated. In the world of Rolex, these can be had for a steal. I owned one that I brought on multiple civilian deployments to the Middle East. It saw a lot and it's one of the watches that I most regret selling.

What’s one watch currently listed on Collected you’re most excited about?

The Rolex 16570 'Chicchi de Mais’ offered by Fog City Vintage—they have so much character and you get a lot of watch for the money.

What do you think most new collectors get wrong when starting out?

Forgetting that it’s easier to buy than it is to sell. Take the time to understand what it is that you like and then focus your time and resources there. Try to find opportunities to handle as many of the watches that you’re interested in as possible, then exercise patience in waiting for the right example to come your way.

Oh, and don’t get hung-up on box and papers. You can’t wear those. A great example is a great example—box and papers be damned.

From top left Chronosport Quartz 30 ‘Magnum PI’; Tudor Submariner 7016 MN74, relumed by True Patina; Chronosport Underwater Demolition Timer (UDT) ‘Rambo’; Tudor Pelagos FXD MN22; CWC Ti300 Titanium 5

What trends or shifts in the market are you paying closest attention to?

I was fairly concerned about tariffs and the effect they would have on pricing throughout the entire watch market; not just on newly imported watches. I’m less concerned now that we’ve settled on 15% for Swiss products, but I’d imagine that there will still be an impact.

If you could add any watch to your collection tomorrow, what would it be?

A full spec Rolex Milsub 5517, W10-issue with confirmed SAS provenance in its military service history. That said, I suppose I would settle for any full spec Rolex Milsub (haha). 

What else are you into?

If we’re talking about ‘stuff’, then I’m also into firearms (shocker, I know). If I weren’t so into watches I’d probably be a Cloner, but I don’t have the bankroll to support both. 

Left Primary Weapon Systems 300BLK paired with 2008 and 2001 CWC SBS Divers; right 1997 issued CWC Royal Navy Diver and 2001 issued CWC SBS Diver hanging out with some other household items